Monthly Archives: November 2010

Postre Chajá

The final dish of my November sojourn into Argentinian and Uruguayan cuisine is Postre Chajá, a dessert unique to Uruguay and famous in that country. And what a way to go out with a bang! The dessert involves a layer of sponge cake or pound cake sandwiched between meringue, berries, whipped cream, and covered with a buttercream frosting. My mom remembers it being frozen and individually-wrapped in tin foil – so that’s what I did, though it can also be made as one large dessert and cut into slices to serve.

There appear to be quite a few variations on the theme, different order and repetition of the layers, and many of the pictures make it look like they have crumbled meringue on the top as well. This is my mom’s recipe that she had used to make chaja once previously, and she specifically remembers having it in Uruguay with strawberries (though many other online recipes mention peaches as the main fruit). I’ll have to try it again when we have nice ripe strawberries or peaches available.  But there was no lack of sugar in the other components, so it balanced out ok even with the less ripe November berries. Here’s what the final frosted product looks like;

Postre Chajá
Meringue:
4 egg whites
1/8 tsp. salt
1/2 tsp. vinegar
1 cup sugar
1 tsp. vanilla

Beat egg whites and salt until stiff peaks form. Gradually add vinegar and 2/3 c. sugar while still beating. Then, by hand fold in the remaining 1/3 c. sugar and vanilla. Trace two large circles or 12 small ones (about 3.5 inches diameter) on a parchment paper lining a baking sheet. Spread the meringue evenly around to make flat circles within your tracing. Bake at 250 degrees for about 30 minutes. This didn’t make a hard meringue in my oven, but I’m not sure if it’s supposed to actually be a crunchy meringue or not. Tasted good, regardless.

Buttercream frosting:
3/4 c. sugar
1/4 c. water
1/8 tsp. cream of tartar
5 egg yolks
2 sticks unsalted butter
1 Tbsp. brandy

Boil sugar, water and cream of tartar for a couple of minutes until sugar is dissolved and mixture is bubbling well. Beat egg yolks in a mixer, and gradually add the syrup, beating until cool and thickened (about 10 minutes). Add well-softened butter in small portions to the egg yolk mixture while beating. When I got to this point, it wasn’t quite smooth, so I added a bit more powdered sugar to stiffen it up a bit. Then add brandy, and just try not to lick the bowl clean…

Other ingredients:
Pound cake or sponge cake – 6 slices
Strawberries or peaches, sliced
2 c. sweetened whipped cream

To assemble the postre, place 6 of the meringues on a baking sheet and make room in your freezer to place it when you’re finished. Add a cake layer to each meringue. Arrange the fruit over the cake, and top with a large spoonful of whipped cream. Add the top meringue and press down lightly to stabilize the stack, it should stick together pretty well with the whipped cream. Then cover the whole thing with a thin layer of buttercream frosting. Freeze well, then wrap individually in aluminum foil and keep in the freezer.  Remove from the freezer at least 30 minutes before serving so that it can start to thaw and will be easier to slice and serve.

Tarta de Palmitos

We’re nearing the end of November, and there are 2 final dishes that I have heard a lot about and wanted to try.  Tarta de Palmitos (hearts of palm tart) from Argentina, and Postre Chaja – a popular dessert from Uruguay (I’ll post about that one tomorrow).

When I started talking to my Argentinian friends about cooking, we looked through some cookbooks together so that they could point out particularly tasty or traditional recipes. When we came to the page with Tarta de Palmitos recipe, both of my friends exclaimed “Que rico!” with much nostalgia in their voices. I don’t remember ever eating palm hearts, much less cooking with them. So of course, I had to try it!

In this dish, hearts of palm are layered in a creamy leek and onion sauce and baked in a buttery crust, topped with Parmesan cheese. Yes – it’s very rich and creamy, usually served as an appetizer or as an accompaniment to soup or salad, much like quiche is served in the U.S.

Tarta de Palmitos
1 Tbsp. melted butter + 1 Tbsp. olive oil
1 c. thinly sliced leeks
1 1/2 c. thinly sliced Vidalia onion
1/2 tsp. paprika
1/4 tsp. salt
1/4 tsp. black pepper
2 Tbsp. cornstarch
1 c. whipping cream
2 hard-boiled eggs, peeled and diced
14 oz. can hearts of palm, drained
9-inch pie crust
1 egg white, lightly beaten
2 Tbsp. Parmesan cheese

Heat the butter and olive oil in a saucepan on medium-low heat. Add leeks and onions and toss around to coat, then cover and cook on low heat for about 15 minutes. Veggies should be cooked and soft, but not browned. Stir in the paprika, salt and pepper.

Meanwhile, mix together the cream, chopped eggs, and cornstarch. Add this mixture to the saucepan and stir it constantly until it thickens up. Remove from heat and set aside.  Drain the palm hearts very well, and slice each one into 8 pieces.

Prick the pie crust with a fork all over the bottom, and blind-bake the pie crust for about 10 minutes at 425 degrees. Brush the bottom of the crust with the beaten egg white.  Spread half of the cream mixture into the crust, then arrange the hearts of palm over the pie. Top with the rest of the cream mixture and spread evenly. Sprinkle with Parmesan cheese and bake at 375 degrees for about 25 minutes, or until the top is lightly browned.  Let cool briefly and slice, serve warm.

Adapted from: The South American Table, by Maria Baez Kijac

Fainá

My mom (who grew up in Uruguay) has fond childhood memories of a flat bread called fainá.  Fainá is made of garbanzo flour, and is closely related to an obscure Italian dish called farinata, found mainly in the region of Liguria/Genoa. There are variations of the dish in other pockets of the Mediterranean. According to an online article, the immigrant Guido family introduced fainá to Uruguay when they started their first local garbanzo milling business in 1915.

Fainá is commonly served by pizzerias in Uruguay. In “pizza a caballo” (pizza on horseback), a thin slice of fainá is placed on top of a regular slice of pizza, making a kind of pizza ‘sandwich’. Fainá can also be served as an appetizer, and some even top it with sugar, chocolate or dulce de leche for dessert. Check out this blog post for more details and pictures of the real deal from someone who lived in Uruguay for awhile.

At my parents’ bakery in Virginia this week, my mom and I decided to make some fainá together. The resulting product was very similar to her recollections of the bread, but not at all what I had expected from hearing it described. It’s not really much of a bread at all, but even better – more the texture of a thin fried polenta. The black pepper and cheese was a nice complement to the garbanzo-flavored fainá, which was crispy on the edges and soft in the middle. It’s not really like anything I have previously eaten, so it’s difficult to describe – but very easy to make, and delicious – so I encourage you to try it for yourself!

Fainá
2 1/2 cups garbanzo (chick pea) flour
1 tsp. salt
1/4 cup olive oil
2 Tbsp. parmesan cheese
1 tsp. ground black pepper (or more, to taste)
1 3/4 cup water

Whisk these ingredients together, and let the batter sit for at least 30 minutes to absorb the water and thicken. [At this point, our recipe mentioned adding another 3/4 cup of water. But the batter was already easily pourable without the additional water, so we chose not to add any more. Might depend on the climate, altitude, how coarsely ground the flour is, etc. - so if it looks like you need more water, add it. It should be about the consistency of a pancake batter.]

Preheat the oven to 450 degrees. For this batch, we used a 9-inch cast-iron skillet and a 9×13 cake pan. Use cast-iron or metal pans with sides, drizzle the pans with a couple of Tbsp. olive oil and heat in the preheated oven for 5 minutes until pans and oil are sizzling hot.

Remove the pans from the oven and pour the batter thinly in the heated pans (one recipe said about 1/4-inch thick), jiggle to spread evenly and place back in the oven. Bake for 8-10 minutes, or until crispy on the edges and nicely browned on the bottom. Cut into pieces, garnish with additional Parmesan or other toppings, and serve warm. Delicious!!